The documentary “High and Low John Galliano”, directed by Kevin MacDonald, is not just a chronicle of the life and career of one of the most influential fashion designers of our time. It’s an emotional journey through the complex duality of human nature; a profound examination of the ups and downs and the light and shadows that shape the story of a successful man.

Genius and talent are often the terms used to describe Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano, but this documentary provides evidence of the effort, work, and dedication that one must put into continue nurturing one’s genius. If talent can originate from a gift, it’s clear that Galliano knew how to stay at the top during the 90s and early 2000s by accepting all challenges; by living outside his comfort zone and by creating magic out of nothing.

The artist expressed on previous occasions that reason alone is not enough to capture his reality. Emotions and feelings, such as anger, nostalgia, or love, are needed. It’s essential for him to get surrounded himself with everything that disturbs him in a certain way to help him create.

On Friday, May 10th, I had the pleasure of participating in the debate at the documentary premiere organized by Filmin. Connecting with the audience, I was reassured to see that the public has forgiven the artist and they’re now hungry to learn about his new creations. A statement of intent that the artistic director has made clear in his latest Haute Couture 24 runway show for Maison Margiela.

Returning to the narrative of the documentary, MacDonald places all his storytelling emphasis on a sincere and direct interview with John (blessed Zoom). A dialogue rich in nuances that will immerse us in the depths of the soul of the l’enfant terrible, exploring his triumphs, failures, methods of escapism, and moments of redemption.

Meticulous in detail, from his beginnings to his meteoric rise in the fashion world, the documentary traces the journey of a professional lifetime responsible for some of the most iconic creations in fashion history.  In case, it needs to be reminded, a young Galliano would soon receive the opportunity from Maison Givenchy to leap to the helm of the iconic Christian Dior, making it clear that until 2011, Dior was Galliano. All while maintaining his homogeneous John Galliano brand, which, since completing his studies at the prestigious Saint Martins school, was the focus for all the industry’s critical gazes.

One of the most powerful aspects of the documentary lies in his personal struggles, his ghosts, and his flaws. His toxic fame, his enemies´addiction, and reaching the darkest moment, marked by three episodes of antisemitism.

Fortunately, it’s not just a documentary about the fashion industry; this film invites us to reflect on asking for forgiveness and forgiving. Regret and rebirth. Betrayals and compassion.

In this era of health and polarity macrotrends , after watching “High and Low” and considering other sad events such as McQueen or Yves Saint Laurent rejecting this commercial empire; should not the industry take into account the mental health of its creative directors? Is it healthy for talent to create so many collections per year?

The documentary confronts us with difficult questions about morality, responsibility, and the capacity for change, with testimonies from industry friends who claim to know his true self and victims of Galliano’s antisemitic attacks with questionable credibility in his speech.

Galliano couldn’t have dedicated himself to anything else. And that’s why the industry decided to punish him for his intolerable acts. We should thank Maison Margiela, who has known how to give him the opportunity to apologize for what he did and return the talent of a chaotic visionary to us.

It’s inevitable to make a nod to our Herdes-Flanders issue, in which Maison Margiela kindly handed us some of their pieces from the workshop to carry out an exclusive production accompanied by an article in which it’s impossible not to mention the talented Galliano and his new stage at the maison.

It seems to foretell the end of a ten-year cycle in the fashion industry. The consumer understands the product now and demands changes. Changes that apparently are appreciated in this game of musical chairs among luxury houses. And Galliano has done it again; after his last Haute Couture show and his prominence in the MET’s “Sleeping Beauty,” it seems that genius is part of this new change.

Where does this transition lead us? Are we in a phoenix-like rebirth just like our protagonist has done on different occasions?

The greatest evidence is his intention to continue making us dream of a dark and fantastical world where nothing is what it seems and everything is attractively exaggerated.